Photo from Dave & Tara Werlich & family. Taken while on safari with PAS in Lake Manyara National Park, August 2010

Young spotted leopard

Photos taken by Alvaro Bastos and guests while on safari with PAS in June 2010.

Lions on the Simba Kopjes

Sunset in the Serengeti

BUSH REPORT FOR THE MONTHS OF JULY & AUGUST 2010

Dear Friends,

This summer we decided to take a different approach with our bush report in that there is a more serious issue of which our clients, friends and family members should be informed. The matter of controversy is in regard to the approval of a commercial highway to be built across the Serengeti National Park. Such a road would have devastating effects on the entire Serengeti ecosystem, in addition to the tourism industry which is a significant contributor to the economies of both Tanzania and Kenya. Our goal with this communication is to notify as many individuals as possible so that they may help us spread the word and build a coalition against the building of the highway.

A World Heritage Site is at risk.

The Serengeti National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, the issue at hand is threatening the very existence of its being. In June 2010, the Tanzanian government approved a major commercial highway to be built across the Serengeti National Park over the span of the next ten years, linking the eastern side of Tanzania with Lake Victoria. The approved route cuts through the Northern Extension of the park, which is also the most remote and pristine part of the entire Serengeti ecosystem. The highway, as it is currently planned, would be built directly in the path of ancient wildlife migratory routes. Each year, The Great Migration moves in a cyclical fashion in an endless search for food and water. The Mara River, which originates in the Kenyan highlands, flows through Kenya’s Masai Mara Game Reserve and into the Northern Extension of the Serengeti, eventually draining into Lake Victoria. This river is the only permanent year-round water source for the massive herds. In the months of August through November, the availability of, and access to, this water source is critical to their survival and hundreds of other species. In addition to the drastic impact such a road will have in Northern Tanzania and near the Kenya border, areas to the east of the Serengeti will be fundamentally transformed as people emigrate there and change land use from cattle grazing to farming. With so much at risk, we need to do everything we can to protect the Serengeti for future generations.

What is the impact?

A commercial highway in the Serengeti would be detrimental to the preservation of its wildlife, the tribal people who live there, and the primitive beauty of this magnificent National Park. A road such as this will mean the end of one of the last untouched places on this planet. The Great Migration contributes to the Serengeti’s uniqueness and global importance, and is one of the main reasons why hundreds of tourists choose to visit this National Park each year. A commercial highway will negatively impact the tourism industry and, therefore, starve revenue from Tanzania’s economy. Recent calculations show that if wildebeest were to be cut off from the critical dry season areas, the population would likely decline from 1.3 million animals to about 200,000 (meaning a collapse to far less than a quarter of its current population and most likely the end of The Great Migration)¹.

Not only will it negatively impact the ungulate herds, but the carnivores that depend on these herds as their food source will also suffer. Additionally, and most unfortunately, this road will create a convenient path for poachers. Tribal people who live there may be forced to move or change their traditional ways of life. The Serengeti will be stripped of its World Heritage recognition and major funding from international wildlife and conservation organizations will discontinue their support – also impacting the Tanzanian economy as well as the people and animals that depend upon it so much.

Can it be saved?

Yes, it is possible! Commercial roads in high value protected areas have proved a disaster all over the world and UNESCO is very strongly recommending that no through roads should lead through any National Park or World Heritage Site². A safer alternative route to the south can bypass the Serengeti altogether and provide more economic benefit for the people of Tanzania.  It would connect with paved highways to the western, central, and eastern regions of the country, serving several times the number of people³.

A southern route around the Serengeti can preserve Tanzania’s greatest tourism asset and spare the devastation of a priceless World Heritage Site. With the help of the world community, Tanzania can find a way to preserve its inheritance, help bring prosperity to its people, and show the world that it still leads the way in conservation⁴.

What can we do?

The solution is to stop the northern highway from going forward and encouraging the adoption and funding of the southern route.

Proud African Safaris will be taking action by proceeding with the following:

1. Informing clients, friends & family members through website updates, letters and word of mouth, and requesting their support against the road.

2. Writing letters to the press / President Obama to inform them of the seriousness of this issue, give them the facts about the detrimental impact this will have on the wildlife & regions in Tanzania and Kenya – as well as to their economies, and request they make a global statement or take an action against the building of the road.

3. Contact major wildlife and conservation organizations (such as such as AWF, WWF, Frankfurt & London Zoo’s, Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute [TAWIRI], etc.) The purpose is to alert these organizations of the seriousness of the issue and to ask them to unite and take action against the building of the road. Such actions could include: Contact/meet with the Tanzanian government, protest, write a letter to the government, attend future hearings with regard to the building of the road, etc.

But, we can’t do this alone. You can also help! Please go to the following website to learn more and to sign the petition against the road! www.savetheserengeti.org. Together we’ll unite to save the Serengeti!

Thank you,

Adam & the Proud African Safaris Team

References:

1. Frankfurt Zoological Society www.zgf.de/?id=72&reportId=85&language=en
2. Frankfurt Zoological Society www.zgf.de/?id=72&reportId=85&language=en
3. Savetheserengeti.org www.savetheserengeti.org/issues/stop-the-serengeti-highway/#axzz0wMEVe88b
4. Savetheserengeti.org www.savetheserengeti.org/issues/stop-the-serengeti-highway/#axzz0wMEVe88b

BUSH REPORT FOR THE MONTHS OF JULY & AUGUST 2010

Dear Friends,

This summer we decided to take a different approach with our bush report in that there is a more serious issue of which our clients, friends and family members should be informed. The matter of controversy is in regard to the approval of a commercial highway to be built across the Serengeti National Park. Such a road would have devastating effects on the entire Serengeti ecosystem, in addition to the tourism industry which is a significant contributor to the economies of both Tanzania and Kenya. Our goal with this communication is to notify as many individuals as possible so that they may help us spread the word and build a coalition against the building of the highway.

A World Heritage Site is at risk.

The Serengeti National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, the issue at hand is threatening the very existence of its being. In June 2010, the Tanzanian government approved a major commercial highway to be built across the Serengeti National Park over the span of the next ten years, linking the eastern side of Tanzania with Lake Victoria. The approved route cuts through the Northern Extension of the park, which is also the most remote and pristine part of the entire Serengeti ecosystem. The highway, as it is currently planned, would be built directly in the path of ancient wildlife migratory routes. Each year The Great Migration moves in a cyclical fashion in an endless search for food and water. The Mara River, which originates in the Kenyan highlands, flows through Kenya’s Masai Mara Game Reserve and into the Northern Extension of the Serengeti, eventually draining into Lake Victoria. This river is the only permanent year-round water source for the massive herds. In the months of August through November, the availability of, and access to, this water source is critical to their survival and hundreds of other species. In addition to the drastic impact such a road will have in Northern Tanzania and near the Kenya border, areas to the east of the Serengeti will be fundamentally transformed as people emigrate there and change land use from cattle grazing to farming. With so much at risk, we need to do everything we can to protect the Serengeti for future generations.

What is the impact?

A commercial highway in the Serengeti would be detrimental to the preservation of its wildlife, the tribal people who live there, and the primitive beauty of this magnificent National Park. A road such as this will mean the end of one of the last untouched places on this planet. The Great Migration contributes to the Serengeti’s uniqueness and global importance, and is one of the main reasons why hundreds of tourists choose to visit this National Park each year. A commercial highway will negatively impact the tourism industry and, therefore, starve revenue from Tanzania’s economy. Recent calculations show that if wildebeest were to be cut off from the critical dry season areas, the population would likely decline from 1.3 million animals to about 200,000 (meaning a collapse to far less than a quarter of its current population and most likely the end of The Great Migration)¹.

Not only will it negatively impact the ungulate herds, but the carnivores that depend on these herds as their food source will also suffer. Additionally, and most unfortunately, this road will create a convenient path for poachers. Tribal people who live there may be forced to move or change their traditional ways of life. The Serengeti will be stripped of its World Heritage recognition and major funding from international wildlife and conservation organizations will discontinue their support – also impacting the Tanzanian economy as well as the people and animals that depend upon it so much.

Can it be saved?

Yes, it is possible! Commercial roads in high value protected areas have proved a disaster all over the world and UNESCO is very strongly recommending that no through roads should lead through any National Park or World Heritage Site². A safer alternative route to the south can bypass the Serengeti altogether and provide more economic benefit for the people of Tanzania.  It would connect with paved highways to the western, central, and eastern regions of the country, serving several times the number of people³.

A southern route around the Serengeti can preserve Tanzania’s greatest tourism asset and spare the devastation of a priceless World Heritage Site. With the help of the world community, Tanzania can find a way to preserve its inheritance, help bring prosperity to its people, and show the world that it still leads the way in conservation⁴.

What can we do?

 The solution is to stop the northern highway from going forward and encouraging the adoption and funding of the southern route.

Proud African Safaris will be taking action by proceeding with the following: 

1. Informing clients, friends & family members through website updates, letters and word of mouth, and requesting their support against the road.

2. Writing letters to the press / President Obama to inform them of the seriousness of this issue, give them the facts about the detrimental impact this will have on the wildlife & regions in Tanzania and Kenya – as well as to their economies, and request they make a global statement or take an action against the building of the road.

3. Contact major wildlife and conservation organizations (such as such as AWF, WWF, Frankfurt & London Zoo’s, Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute [TAWIRI], etc.) The purpose is to alert these organizations of the seriousness of the issue and to ask them to unite and take action against the building of the road. Such actions could include: Contact/meet with the Tanzanian government, protest, write a letter to the government, attend future hearings with regard to the building of the road, etc.

But, we can’t do this alone. You can also help! Please go to the following website to learn more and to sign the petition against the road! www.savetheserengeti.org. Together we’ll unite to save the Serengeti!

Thank you,

Adam & the Proud African Safaris Team

References:

1. Frankfurt Zoological Society www.zgf.de/?id=72&reportId=85&language=en
2. Frankfurt Zoological Society www.zgf.de/?id=72&reportId=85&language=en
3. Savetheserengeti.org www.savetheserengeti.org/issues/stop-the-serengeti-highway/#axzz0wMEVe88b
4. Savetheserengeti.org www.savetheserengeti.org/issues/stop-the-serengeti-highway/#axzz0wMEVe88b

Dear Friends,

This month we have been experiencing great weather in the entire Serengeti National Park. Generally, the sky has been cloudy and the temperatures are pleasant for animals and people alike, except perhaps for when the noontime sun beats down a bit more harshly (which is when we often choose to enjoy our picnic lunches under a shady tree). The sun rises early at 6:15 am and is down again at 6:30pm. The Southern plains are not too dry yet which means there is still an abundance of animals to be found there. The regions of Moru and the Central Serengeti has grasses both green and beige in color so there is plenty of water there as well as. It is still the “greenest” in the upper north where the herds will soon be moving more swiftly.

The Great Migration is indeed moving on! We’ve recently witnessed the largest numbers of ungulates in the Western Corridor although we have received current reports that another significant portion of the herds are within the Lobo and Loliondo areas in the upper north (close to Bologonja). Huge herds of zebra are also gathered in the Central Serengeti, along with large herds of elephants at Seronera, Grumeti and Moru Kopjes. In the Southern plains, zebras, ostriches, and an uncountable number of gazelles can be found. It seems the zebras have a slower migration pace toward Seronera and the Ngorongoro highlands. As for our primate friends, baboons are abounding in the Western Corridor, and the Western Black and White Colobus Monkey are to be found all over in the Grumeti River forest.

Animal sightings and highlights shared from our clients this month:

Serengeti National Park: Witnessing the great Migration in the Western Corridor, particularly with a breath-taking sunset as the backdrop. Large numbers of crocodiles in the Grumeti River next to schools of hippos. Also giraffe, impalas, Colobus Monkeys and lot’s of Topis.

Seronera area: Immense herds of zebra grazing and galloping alongside our jeep. The Makoma lion pride with two wildebeest kills – including young cubs enjoying the reward. A young, female leopard resting on the high-up limb of an acacia tree, peering through the branches at us.  

Moru Kopjes: Four Cheetahs – a mother with her 3 juveniles! Enumerable elephants, zebra, gazelles, spotted hyenas, Cape buffalo, and Black-backed Jackals. Elephant calves playing near Naabi Hill, running between the legs of the adults, rolling in the mud, trumpeting!

Ngorongoro conservation area: The cooler morning mists and foggy evenings provided a memorable experience while game-driving to & from the camps. The western side which adjoins the Serengeti Plains is very dry whereas the Eastern part and forest highlands are green and moist.

Maasai village visit: The visit to a Maasai village on the way to the Ngorongoro Crater was a new and unique experience for our clients.  They learned about Maasai history and culture and looked-on as the villagers performed their traditional warrior dances. A villager’s house was also toured and our client’s learned how the small grass and clay hut could accommodate a family. Lastly, they visited where the children were schooled.

Crater visit: Herds of zebra were moving toward the crater floor from outside the rim, some from the southern plains of Serengeti, some from the forest edge. Female lions with a zebra kill, and it seemed there were lion cubs scattered everywhere we drove! Greater flamingos were speckled like tiny pink dots all over Lake Magadi. Huge male elephant bulls were roaming the crater floor, along with many wildebeest and also the spotted hyenas.

Tarangire: Beautiful scenery driving from the Karatu Plantations. Tarangire was the best place to see elephants thriving! Giraffe, impalas, and many water birds were seen enjoying the plentiful vegetation and water in the Tarangire River.

PAS want to extend a special thank you to all of our clients who travelled with us this month, and for sharing their trip-highlights and safari photos. We look forward to meeting more of you in July!

Regards,

Adam & the Proud African Safaris Team

Dear Friends,

The raining season is coming to an end. Inside our protected areas of The Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Lake Manyara National Park and Tarangire National Park, a large portion of green pastures are changing from vibrant colors to beige. This is an indication of less moisture in the soil as its condition changes from wet to dry in the coming months.

SPECIAL EVENT IN THE SERENGETI THIS MONTH!

The Serengeti National Park, the largest Natural Wildlife Game Sanctuary in the world, received six Eastern Black Rhinoceros from South Africa this month. This is considered a remarkable first step toward the conservation of these magnificent animals, and toward bringing them back from the brink of extinction in our modern earth. These prehistoric creatures have suffered significantly from poaching during the past 30 years. In fact, the Eastern Black Rhino is the most endangered of three remaining subspecies of Black Rhino with only 700 remaining in the wild, of which 70 are currently in Tanzania. This translocation into the Serengeti National Park will increase this region’s population to ultimately become the largest free-ranging population of Eastern Black Rhinos anywhere. There will be a total of 32 Black Rhinoceros to be relocated to the Serengeti National Park within the next five years. This will be the biggest relocation of this kind ever undertaken.

Other updates from the bush.

In the Serengeti National Park, the wildebeest migration is essentially marching northwards. They are divided into different groups of various sizes. One group has already taken a strict northern direction and is moving close to Lobo area. This group travels considerably faster compared to others coming behind and passing through the Western Corridor and Central Regions – all northeast of the Loliondo Game-Controlled Area. We are looking forward to witnessing the second large migration group coming to the Western Corridor by June, as this group is currently gathering in great numbers behind the West Woodland along the Mbalageti River which has no accessibility due to the dense population of trees.

The Grumeti River is still flowing, though its water level has dropped to “normal”. Plenty of crocodiles are awaiting the migrants to cross. Fauna biomass is stable with a good natality rate for most species. Elephants are flourishing in Tarangire National Park with an estimated 2.5 million in the Tarangire ecosystem, a higher population than anywhere else in the northern circuit of Tanzania! The African Cape Buffaloes are doing very well in many National Parks; north, west and south. Lions are spotted in good numbers in the Serengeti as well as the Ngorongoro Crater, with many lion cubs growing healthy. Cheetahs, too, are in good numbers mainly in the Serengeti and Tarangire National Parks. Leopards are doing well in the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Highlands Forest and Tarangire National Park.

Bird diversity is fabulous. Flamingos are flourishing in the Momela Seven Lakes of Arusha National Park, Lake Manyara National Park, and Lake Natron where their main breeding site is. Most Avian migrants are on the way back to their natural places to catch-up with a nesting season; among them are European White stocks, Eurasian Roller, Steppe Eagle, some Bee-Eaters to list just a few.

We are enjoying the terrific weather at this time of year and feel fortunate to have had so many exciting animal encounters over the past months. The Proud African Safaris team feels energized and is looking forward to meeting the many more new faces of our esteemed clients this season, and the summer months fast approaching!

Regards,

Adam & the Proud African Safaris Team

Dear Friends,

We’ve had a busy month exploring the Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Loliondo, Lake Natron/Oldoinyo Lengai, and Engaruka regions. We are pleased to share with you below some of the highlights from our most recent journeys.

As many of you know, April is the rainiest month of the “wet season”, and presently, the weather in those protected is based on heavy rains. Coincidentally, it does not rain ongoing and country wide, it is more sporadic; covering different locations at various times. Regardless, we were thankful to have powerful and reliable 4WD vehicles as many of the roads are currently under repair by park rangers, due to the ongoing rains.

The Serengeti plains

The animals couldn’t be happier than in this time of plenty. Following to the presence of rain, the Wildebeest Migration was found concentrated in the short grass plains southwest of Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and towards Kusini of the Serengeti National Park. Wildebeest calves were being born in abundance! When we were in the Naabiatat plain/Makao region, our clients photographed the great migration herds all day! We also saw prides of lions – consisting of adults and healthy sub-adults, and a female cheetah (with two cubs) stalk and chase down a Thomson gazelle. It was thrilling!

Ndutu Woodlands & Lake Masek

Once we moved on to the Ndutu Woodlands, one of the most exciting moments in our trip was when a young, female leopard walked up beside our van. To see this majestic cat in such close proximity is something I’ll always remember; we could clearly see the beautiful markings on her fur, and her face was lovely but we could also recognize her power quite easily. We were very fortunate to have this close encounter with one of Africa’s great predators, and we were able to capture some terrific photos! On a separate occasion closer to Lake Masek, we came across a lioness and four cubs estimated less than a week old. This was also a very joyous sight!

Gol Kopjes

One morning we drove-up on a large male lion with an impressive black mane, feasting on a wildebeest carcass. We watched from a safe distance as he enjoyed his meal. At the same time, two adult female lions from the same pride stalked a zebra. Unfortunately their cover was not enough and their hunt was unsuccessful. We hoped that when the great male was done feasting, the females would share the remains. Later that same day, we again saw the female lions drinking from the water hole. This day the sun was shining, the sky was blue, and the reflection in the water was perfect.

Olkarien Gorge

The day we visited the gorge we left very early in the morning. Fortunately we came across a family of Bat Eared Foxes. Many are interested to know that Bat Eared Foxes mate for life and sometimes two females will mate with one male and share a communal den. These animals belong to the Canidae family though they are not carnivores – their diet consists mainly of insects. They use their large, specialized ears to locate dung beetles and termites. They can even hear termites chewing on short grasses!

Once we arrived at the gorge we enjoyed our time walking in the gorge and identified numerous birds, including Egyptian Vultures, Hooded Vultures, White-headed Vultures, Ruppels Grifon Vultures, Tawny Eagles and White-rumped Swifts. Also, we found fresh foot prints of a leopard with cubs. The gorge was amazing as were all of our April adventures in the bush!

Regards,

Adam

Dear Friends,

It is our sincere hope that you are all doing well. We would like to share our March, 2010 bush report to emphasize awareness on what is happening in the home of our loved wildlife. This month our focus is on The Serengeti National Park and the Great Wildebeest Migration.

March through May is Tanzania’s wet season. This time of year seems to enlighten the souls of a large part of the country, and perhaps even all of East Africa. Generally speaking, every part of our environment changes accordingly; the vegetation, human activities, and wildlife abundance. Most of the country has turned green and lush, rivers are all overflowing with water, swamps and marshes have recovered from the low water levels of a few months ago, and different vegetation zones are recovering. We are expecting the rains to go on until mid May and this will continue to be a joyous time for all of the people and animals in Tanzania.

The Serengeti National Park and The Great Wildebeest Migration.

Currently, the wildebeest migration is divided into two massive groups; one based on the side of The Hidden Valley while the other has moved into the plains North of the Ndutu Forest – flocked around the Naabi Hill area. These massive herds consist of zebras in addition to the wildebeest. It is quite a spectacular sight to see these animals in such substantial numbers and comingling. Their strong instincts for survival drive them in their annual migration for food and generation. My most unique moment this month while on safari was when we drove into the middle of millions of thundering wildebeest – it was truly awe-inspiring. I had to catch my breath.

As can be expected, we have seen the migration is accompanied by many vultures; mainly “Ruppel’s Vultures” and “Lappet Faced”. In addition, one of the Serengeti’s great predators, the Spotted Hyena, has also been seen in great numbers – hunting in packs and also scavenging. These magnificent animals have incredibly strong jaws and can crush the bone of their prey with ease. Hyenas are the only known mammals whose young are born with teeth. It is believed this is partly due to the high concentration of calcium in their system.

The southern grounds of the Serengeti are providing rich pastures for the wildebeest, zebras and hundreds of gazelles. There is plenty of food for scavengers at this time of the year so their numbers are thriving as well. March is the wildebeest calving season and the young are being born in abundance, especially at the early morning hours. I felt fortunate to observe the birth of so many new calves this season, yet also somewhat saddened while many had fallen prey to lions, hyenas and Black-backed Jackals. Still, it is part of the circle of life in the wild.

Other migrant animals are also part of this ecosystem. European White Stork’s and Abdim’s Storks were among the amazing flocks seen recently over the Serengeti plains. These birds also signify a good season; that the ecosystem has plenty of food.

I imagine a gradual increase of wildebeest numbers even compared to two years ago.  There is an indication that the two large migration-herds will eventually start their movement out of the open plains in the coming month. These movements will then go through the Moru Kopjes to the South West, and the Simba Kopjes. The two groups will meet at the Central Serengeti, Seronera area. This will be a significant change, moving from the plains into the woodlands. The animals will continue their migration Westward and North until they reach the Mara River later this year. The Migration of wildebeest is truly one of the most spectacular events remaining in our modern planet.

Happy Easter,

Adam

Written in the Austin Texas newspaper

In Tarangire National Park, Tanzania, we were having an awesome African breakfast in a scenic riverside picnic area. Adam, our guide with Proud African Safaris, had just poured our final cup of Tanzanian coffee.
Suddenly, Adam grunts “Uhhh” while looking toward the parking lot. Thinking nothing of his grunt, I continued sipping my coffee and then, slowly headed toward our van to continue our game drive. As we looked inside of our van, we saw Fritos and vanilla cookies scattered everywhere.
We had been hit by the American junk food junkie thief. How could this happen, I wondered, when all the doors were locked. We looked up and the roof was wide open! While viewing hundreds of elephants and their babies and other game, we had left it open.
Suddenly, the thief jumped straight up through the roof and we realized that we had been robbed by the junk food monkey! That monkey was having breakfast while we were having breakfast. And his dirty little monkey hands rummaged through my tote bag to steal my only bag of Fritos, and vanilla cookies. How lucky I was that he did not bother my medications and other expensive, priceless items.
Then, we noticed he was going into another van through its roof. Before we could stop him, he jumped into that van and stole a bag of potato chips. Jumping out instantly through the roof, he galloped across the park carrying those potato chips. It was a priceless run of freedom before his next robbery.
In that Vervet monkey’s stomach was my Fritos that I had been saving for my stomach when I had an American junk food craving for my favorite snack as I viewed cheetahs, buffalo, lions, rhinos, giraffes, hyenas, hippos, leopards, elephants and yes, monkeys!